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- FAQs » Tumblers


Q: What size tumbler should I purchase?
A: Select the tumbler according to the number of cases you will be tumbling each time. The tumbler will run much better and efficiently when always used at maximum capacity.

Q: What media do you recommend for cleaning cases?
A: Treated corncob is recommended for normal use, the Tufnut is recommended for extremely fouled cases as it is more abrasive. Please note that the Tufnut may leave a rouge residue on the cases. This will not cause any harm to the gun or cases.

Q: How long should I run the machine?
A: Generally, it will only take two hours or so to polish the brass, this will vary with the condition of the media. It will take longer as the media breaks down and wears out. Always tumble with the tumbler lid on, as the heat generated will more quickly and efficiently result in a better polish.

Q: My tumbler bowl is quite dirty. What can I do to clean it?
A: The bowl will get quite dirty with a lot of use. The best thing to use to clean it somewhat is Armor-All cleaner on the outside only. There is nothing available that is suitable or necessary to clean the inside of the bowl.

Q: I am getting some static electricity in my bowl, what can I do to eliminate this?
A: Wipe the bowl with a clothes dryer sheet, like Bounce. This should remedy the problem.

Q: I recently replaced the bowl assembly on my 1200 tumbler. I replaced the center stem when I did this. Now my tumbler is not vibrating, it is only humming, what did I do wrong?
A: It is likely that the stem was screwed down too far and is binding up the motor. Try backing off the stem a half turn or so and this should free up the motor.

Q: Can I tumble loaded ammo?
A: No, this can be very dangerous. Tumbling loaded ammo can break down the powder causing extreme pressure problems.

Q: How do I separate the cases from the media after polishing?
A: If you are using a standard model, we have the Turbo Sifter, if you are using the Auto Flo tumbler, simply remove the drain plug while the tumbler is running. This will drain the media away from the cases. Be sure to place the drain pan beneath the spout while this is draining, turning the pan as needed to keep from spilling over the sides.

Q: Can I polish jewelry in the tumbler?
A: Yes, although do not polish jewelry with stones that are set. The tumblers can be used to polish any non-ferrous metal.

Q: Can I tumble shot shell cases?
A: Yes, however it will only polish the brass heads, it will not clean the plastic portion of the shells.

Q: I am looking for an industrial type tumbler for high volume polishing and/or metal finishing. Do you have any models suitable for this?
A: Lyman does not have any industrial type models, but we do have a division which specializes in this type of units. We would suggest checking out


Q: How much media should I use for the tumbler?
A: It is always best to run your tumbler at maximum capacity. The chart on the website or in your instruction book will indicate the correct media charge. A good rule of thumb for best results is to use media at 60% by volume to cases (40% by volume).

Q: How long does the media last?
A: It will last 10 to 15 uses depending upon how dirty the cases are.

Q: My media is getting quite dusty. How can I keep the dust down?
A: Add a few drops of baby oil to the media and run it to evenly distribute. Older media which is becoming dusty will indicate that the media is wearing out.

Q: What types of reactivators do you recommend for the media and what can I expect from them?
A: Either our Media Reactivator or Turbo Brite can be used. Both will allow used media to have a longer life.

Q: I am experiencing some clumping in the media. What caused this and how do I solve the problem?
A: Clumping would be caused from moisture. Somehow the media is too wet, either by an additive being used or by humidity. Spread the media out on some newspapers in a dry area until it dries out. This will remedy the problem. The clumping will go away if you simply tumble the media for an hour.


Q: How long will the media last?
A: It will last 10 to 15 uses, depending upon how dirty the cases are.

Q: What type of reactivator do you recommend for the Tufnut media and what can I expect from them?
A: We recommend only using our Turbo Brite brass polish with the Tufnut media.


Q: Do I add this to media?
A: No, this is used by itself. The cases are placed in a container and the Case Cleaner is poured over them. It only takes several minutes to work. Cases should not be left in over 5 minutes.


Q: How much do I use per pound of media?
A: Use 1 Tablespoon per pound of media.


Q: How much do I use per pound of media?
A: Use 1 ounce per 2 pounds of media. We do not recommend using the Turbo Charger Reactivator with the Tufnut media, only with the Corncob media.


Q: Will moly coated bullets change velocity and pressure?
A: Moly coated bullets will decrease friction, so they will generally lower velocities and pressures somewhat versus the same load using uncoated bullets. We have found, however, that the amount of change will vary from caliber to caliber, gun to gun, load to load, etc. It is safe to use existing load data developed with uncoated bullets with moly coated bullets, but not the other way around.

Q: Will moly be taken out of the barrel during cleaning?
A: No. You may see excessive moly on your cleaning patches, but moly will not be completely removed.

Q: What is Super-Fine Grade Moly?
A: Moly is commonly available in three grades. These are Super-fine, Technical-fine, and Technical. The finer the moly is, the better it works. Lyman uses Super-fine Grade Moly in this kit, which has a median particle size of 1.5 microns. It is much more expensive than the other grades, but works the best. Technical-fine has a median particle size of 6 microns and Technical is 30 microns.

Q: Should moly coated bullets be waxed?
A: Some shooters coat moly bullets with carnauba wax after they are moly coated. Some claims have been made that the wax coating can add to barrel life. The main purpose, however, is to keep your fingers clean while handling moly coated bullets. Since our Super-Fine grade moly coats so very well, little rub-off occurs during handling. We therefore feel that the time and expense of wax coating is unneccessary.

Q: What if bullets are difficult to moly coat? If moly does not seem to be adhering well to the bullets, they may need to be degreased. Any oils, including those from your fingers can prevent moly from adhering to the bullet. Bullets can be degreased with alcohol or by tumbling them in clean, untreated corn cob media.

Q: Can nylon tipped bullets be moly coated?
A: Yes, the moly coating process will not damage the nylon tips.

Q: Do I moly coat cast bullets before or after sizing and lubing?
A: Cast bullets should be sized without lubing, and then moly coated. The moly coated bullets can then be lubed normally.

Q: I am having trouble coating some jacketed bullets. I coated cast bullets without a problem. Am I doing something wrong?
A: Lead and jacketed bullets should not be tumble coated in the same bowl. Once lead bullets are used, the bowl and media are contaminated with lead residue and will no longer moly coat jacketed bullets properly. This contamination can also be caused by jacketed bullets with large areas of exposed lead tips. It is recommended that separate bowls be used for lead and jacketed bullets. There is no way to decontaminate either the bowl or the media once lead has been introduced.


Q: How much do I use?
A: Moly Bore Cream is applied with a patch. Use enough to saturate the patch and run it through the bore repeatedly.

Q: How can I tell if I need more?
A: Barrels should be retreated after cleaning.

Q: How do I remove it?
A: Moly gets into the bores of steel and is difficult to remove completely. A good bore solvent and scrubbing with a bore brush will remove most of the moly.


Q: Does this work as well as moly tumble coating?
A: Yes, it is just as effective.

Q: Can the moly spray be used as a mould release?
A: Yes it works very well for this.


Q: How does the Ceramic media differ from Steel shot?
A: Ceramic is a hard, smooth material that works very well for moly coating. It is slightly faster than steel shot and less costly.